Monday, May 25, 2015

NINETEEN - No thanks; I'm not that hungry.



Special to Accent Magazine
June 2004

I was once asked by North Grenville Mayor Bill Gooch if I had ‘tried the fried chicken feet yet?’  I am happy to report that, almost a year and a half after arriving in Taiwan, the answer is still ‘no’. I don’t exactly live off of McDonald’s food in Taipei, but I steer clear of most of the local fare, and there are several important reasons for that.
One day last week I was sweeping the floor when one of my students mumbled to me, ‘Teacher, can I have some more?’  I turned around and looked at the little guy, ready to scold him for speaking with his mouth full.  There was four year old Charles, with a huge octopus tentacle hanging out of the side of his mouth.  All I could think was: that’s something you wouldn’t see in a kindergarten in Canada.The next day we had chunks of pork fat as the main meat dish in the school cafeteria.  I was understandably horrified, but tried to keep my reaction to myself and just said I wasn’t very hungry, filling up on soup instead. 
“What do you call this in English?” asked my Chinese co-teacher.  “I like to eat fat,” she said, when I explained that we normally threw that stuff out in Canada.  This 25-year old woman is about the size of my twelve year old.  She says she is slim because she drinks green tea all day.  I think it is probably more of a testament to heredity than a side effect of green tea. Regardless, she has me drinking the mossy liquid on a regular basis now.  It’s full of antioxidants as well.
I went to Taiwan’s version of Kentucky Fried Chicken a while ago and ordered a chicken salad.  There was no sign of chicken meat in the meal, just strips of skin and fat.  Yummy.  I picked it all out and ate the greens.
A large amount of oil is used in the cooking here, and many Asians have major health problems after middle age as a result.  Monosodium glutamate is used as a flavor enhancer in just about everything and even if the can looks like Campbell’s soup from back home, a quick glance at the label will verify that extra salt and MSG has been added before it hit the shelves in Asia.
Medical research has revealed that prolonged consumption of MSG can lead to hair loss in both sexes.  Unfortunately, someone (probably a spokesperson for a company that produces MSG) spread the rumor that hair loss is caused by acid rain falling on your head and so these people continue to eat large quantities of the harmful chemical but get quite anxious if they are caught out in one of Taiwan’s characteristic downpours without an umbrella.
Chicken testicles are a regular menu offering in local restaurants, as my friend discovered when a dinner was hosted in his honor by some of his Taiwanese colleagues.  I stuck to fried rice, but he gallantly tried a taste, announcing that it was truly as horrid as he imagined.
In preparation for living and working in Asia, many foreigners are taught that being invited to dinner at the home of a local is a great honor and should not be refused if at all possible. I would be worried, quite frankly, about what rare delicacies would be offered to me at such a gathering.
If you do an Internet search of ‘Asian food delicacies’ you may be shocked by what you discover.  Don’t say I didn’t warn you. 
There are some people in Asia holding fast to the ancient beliefs that certain body parts of animals will increase the virility of the man who consumes them.  It is illegal to kill these animals or to sell the meat for the purpose of consumption.  However, the blood of a live snake mixed into rice wine is available regularly on Snake Alley here in Taipei.  The snake is tormented until adrenalin is coursing through its veins before it is bled.  This is said to increase the ‘power’ in the dose.
The practice of torturing the animal before it is slaughtered is believed to create a more tender meat.  Domesticated ‘companion’ animals such as dogs and cats are a delicacy in parts of Asia and they have reportedly been slaughtered using methods that would stupefy many a foreigner. Animal rights activists are working tirelessly to increase the enforcement of laws that have been in place for just a few years now.  The problem is that until the consumer changes his way of thinking, the animals will continue to suffer this way.
Various aboriginal cultures in other parts of the world hold to beliefs that the consumption of the human afterbirth or placenta will promote health and so tribal ceremonies have been celebrated around this practice for generations.  In parts of Asia this notion has been taken one step further, and some people are actually admitting to eating human fetuses.  Most of this activity is taking place in mainland China, with the explanation that the practice adheres to ancient Chinese tradition.
In the age of the Internet, stories spread very quickly. It has been rumored that this type of modern-day cannibalism was taking place in Taiwan but the Taipei Economic and Cultural Office was quick to issue a response to the allegations.
“The GIO (Government Information Office) wishes to emphasize that no event of this kind has ever taken place in Taiwan, and that the serving or eating of such a dish would break an ROC (Republic of China) law against the defiling of human corpses.”
If I’ve ruined your appetite, I do apologize.  Needless to say, I do a lot of cooking at home for myself.  I have developed a love for Indian curry, as many of my friends here in Taipei are from the UK, where it is the dining-out food of choice. I like to take advantage of the low prices on chicken breasts because most of the imported meat and vegetables can get pretty expensive. The lean, white chicken meat is cheap, however, because the Taiwanese would prefer to throw that tasteless, healthy stuff away.

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Fermented tofu is the main delicacy in Taiwan. Its sale from street vendor carts is restricted to one neighbourhood of each city or town so that its odour – reminiscent of chicken poo and vomit – does not permeate the entire district. I never tried it. I couldn’t get past the smell. Also in the “smells bad, tastes great” category is the Asian fruit that looks like a prickly watermelon: durian. Some upscale apartment buildings forbid durian being opened indoors, as the stench travels through the ventilation to other homes. Again, never tried it. I was just never curious enough.
Perhaps my favourite thing to eat in Asia was Thai Beef Salad. I ordered it regularly from the pub on the way home from the gym. The first time I ordered it, the barmaid brought me an unsolicited glass of milk. I found out why, soon enough. Milk seems to be the only thing that will calm the flaming tastebuds and wash away the resin left behind by the spicy chili seeds.
I tried making that salad at my apartment once. I remembered the heat was in the chili pepper seeds, so I smartly scraped them out with my fingernail. Moments later, as my eyes teared up and my nose began to run, I grabbed a Kleenex. Big mistake. The resin on my fingers travelled through the tissue and up my nose. My sinuses were on fire with every breath.

When my roommates walked in a few minutes later, they were greeted with the sight of me bent over a bowl of milk, attempting to flush out my nose. If they thought it was a strange vision, they said nothing. 


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